**篇1 工作室The Workroom 2 人體模型與測量Mode I Form and Measurements3 繪制原型樣板圖Drafting the Basic Pattern Set第二篇4 省道的處理(原理#1)Dart ManipuIation(PrinciPIe#1)5 省道的設計(開花省、褶裥、擴展褶、抽褶)Designing With Darts (Tuck-Darts．Pleats，Flares，and Gathers) 6 造型分割線StyIeIines 7 加放松量(原理#2)Added Fullness(Pr InciPle#2) 8 育克、冒肩、細縫裥和縫褶Yokes，FIanges,Pin Tucks，and Pleat Tucks 9 輪廓線(原理#3)Contouring(PrinciPIe#3) 第三篇10 領子Collars 11 高領口BuiIt-Up Neckl ines 12 垂蕩褶領Cowls 13 圓裙與瀑布狀花邊裙skirts／Circles and Cascades 14 袖子SIeeves 15 連肩袖、插肩袖、落肩袖、大袖窿袖Kimono，RagIan,Drop ShouIder．and Exaggerated Armho I es 337第四篇16 紐扣、紐孔與貼邊Buttons，Buttonholes,and Facings 17 衩口與口袋PIackets and Pockets 索引 Index 1 工作室The Workroom樣板制作的工具PATTERNMAKING TOOLS樣板紙PATTERN PAPER樣板制作的術語PATTERNMAKING TERMS樣板與生產的術語PATTERN PRODUCT 1 0N TERMS我們過去的狀況THE WAY WE WERE服裝產品的制作APPAREL PRODUCT DEVELOPMEN成本計算表COST SHEET樣板圖表PATTERN CHART設計明細表DESION SPECIFICATIONS SHEET省道DART圓順曲線、校正線和等分線BLENDING，TRUEING．AND EQUALIZING標注款式造型線STYLELINE GUIDES織物術語FABRIC TERMS樣板經向絲縷線PATTERN GRAIN LlNE平衡線術語BALANCE Ll NE TERMS特殊情況SPECIAL lNFORIIATl0N2 人體模型與測量Model Form and Measurements誰是理想的標準體型WHO IS THE STANDARD IDEAL FIGURE工業化樣板的規格PATTERN I NDUSTRY STANDARDS百貨商店的規格DEPARTMENT STORE STANDARDS標準化的其他嘗試OTHER ATTEMPTS AT STANDARDIZATl0N美國材料試驗協會的標準ASTM STANDARDS標記術語LANDMARK TERMS術語縮寫SYMBOL KEY測量術語MEASURING THE FORM測量圍度CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS水平線(HBL)HORIZONTAL BALANCE LINE(HBL)測量寬度HOR I ZONTAL MEASUREMENTS測量長度VERT I CAL MEASUREMENTS測量吊帶STRAP MEASUREMENTS尺寸規格表STANDARD MEASUREMENT CHART3 繪制原型樣板圖Drafting the BasiC Pattern Set連衣裙原型樣板THE BASIC DRESS FOUNDATl0N上衣前片樣板草圖FRONT BOD I CE DRAFT上衣后片樣板草圖BACK BOD I cE DRAFT適體的上衣樣板FITTlNG THE BODICE合適的領口線FITTlNG THE NECKLINE合體的袖窿FITTING THE ARMHOLE裙子樣板草圖SKIRT DRAFT核對樣板PREPAR I NG PATTERNS FOR TEST FlT袖子原型樣板THE BASIC SLEEVE袖山吃勢量SLEEVE CAP EAS袖子規格表SLEEVE MEASUREMENT CHAR袖子樣板草圖SLEEVE DRAFT調節袖子適合上衣袖窿ADJUST l NG SLEEVE TO ARMHOLE OF BODICE 53無縫份工具樣板SEAMLESS WORKING PATTERNS完成樣板COMPLET l NG THE PATTERN4 省道的處理(原理#1)Dart Manipulation(Principle#1)概述INTRODUCTl0N工具樣板WORKlNG PATTERNS樣板制作技術PATTERNMAKING TECHNIQUES設計分析三個較重要的樣板制作原理 DESIGN ANALYSIS AND THE THREE MAJOR PATTERNMAKING PRINClPLES樣板制作術語PATTERNMAK I NG TERMS適合度測試TEST FIT省道的處理DART MANlPULATl0N 單省道系列樣板——剪切展開技術SINGLE-DART SERIES——SLASH-SPREAD TECHNIQUE單省道系列樣板——旋轉移動技術SlNGLE-DART SERIES——PIVOTAL-TRANSFER TECHN I OUE肩胛省THE SHOULDER DART 后領口省THE BACK NECK DART自評測試SELF-EVALUAT I ON TEST 雙省道系列樣板——剪切展開技術TWO-DARTSERIES——LASH-SPREAD TECHN I QUE 85雙省道系列——旋轉移動技術TWO-DARTSER I ES——PIVOTAL-TRANSFERTECHNlOUE 89樣板評估練習SELF-EVALUAT I ON TEST 5 省道的設計(開花省、褶裥、擴展褶、抽褶)Designing with Darts(Tuck-Darts、Pleats，Flares．and Gathers)概述lNTRODUCTl0N一組等量省的變化DART CLUSTERS AND DART EQU I VALENTS一組漸變省和輻射省GRADUATED AND RADIATING DARTS平行省PARALLEL DARTS不對稱省ASYMMETR I C DARTS相交省INTERSECTING DART相交省的設計變化I NTERSECT I NG DART DESIGN VARIATlONS6 造型分割線Stylel ines概述lNTRODUCTl0N傳統公主線CLASSIC PRINCESS STYLELINE袖窿公主線ARMHOLE PR I NCESS STYLELINE拼縫線PANEL STYLELlNE7 加放松量(原理#2)Added Fullness(Principle．#2)加放松量：原理#2 ADDED FULLNESS：PRINCIPLE #2寬松衫的基本樣板BLOUSON FOUNDATl0N8 育克、冒肩、細縫裥和縫褶 Yokes，Flanges，Pin Tucks，and Pleat Tucks上衣中的育克YOKES FOR BODICE冒肩FLANGES縫裥與細縫裥PLEAT TUCKS AND P I N TUCKS9 輪廓線(原理#3)Contouring (Principie#3)輪廓線：原理#3 CONTOURING：PRINCIPLE ＃3輪廓基準線樣板THE CONTOUR GU I DE PATTERNS傳統帝國線THE CLASSIC EMPIRE斜疊襟SURPLIcE(OR WRAP)DESIGNS露肩式OFF-SHOULDER DES I GNS露背式吊帶胸衣HALTERS 10 領子Collas概述INTRODUCTl0N領子的術語COLLAR TERMS領座和翻折類型COLLAR STAND AND ROLL TYPES領子的分類COLLAR CLASSIFlCATIONS原型襯衫領的基本樣板BASIC SHIRT COLLAR FOUNDATl0N銅盆領PETER PAN COLLARS海軍領SAILOR COLLAR深開領口的領子COLLARS WITH DEEP OPEN NECKLINES立領MANDARlN COLLAR 189有領座的領子COLLAR WITH STAND有領座的寬領子WIDE COLLAR AND STAND遠離頸部的領子和領座COLLAR AND STAND AWAY FROM THE BASIC NECKLINE領子與領座為一片的衣領ALIN-ONE COLLAR AND STAND翻折領ROLL COLLARS領子變化的設計COLLAR DES IOGN VARIATIONS11 高領口Built-Up Necklines高領口BUlLT-UP NECKLINES嵌片型帶狀領I NSET BANDS12 垂蕩褶領Cowls垂蕩褶領COWLS背部垂蕩褶領BACK COWLS一片式垂蕩褶袖窿ONE-PlECE ARMHOLE COWLS褶裥式垂蕩褶領PLEATED COWLS夸張的垂蕩褶領EXAGGERATED COWLS嵌片式垂蕩褶領I NSET COWLS13 圓裙與瀑布狀花邊裙Skirts／CircIes and Cascades概述INTRODUCTION 裙子的長度sK I RT LENGTHS 四種裙子的基本樣板 FOUR SKIRTFOUNDAT IONS 靈活多變的裙褶FLEXIBI LlTY 0F SKIRT DARTS 低腰裙LOW-WAlST SKIRTS 高腰裙GH-WAlST SKIRTS 準備拉鏈和腰頭PREPARING ZIPPER AND WAISTBAND 基本腰頭樣板BASIC WAISTBAND 擴展褶裙(喇叭裙)FLARED SKIRTS腰部抽褶裙SKIRTS WITH GATHERED WAISTLINES多片裙GORED SKlRTS楔形褶裥裙PEGGED SKIRT WITH PLEATS裹疊式瀑布褶裙DRAPED WRAP SKIRT WITH A CASCADE育克裙SKIRTS WlTH YOKES多層裙TIERS 褶裥PLEATS三角插片GODETS裹疊式裙WRAP SKIRT圓裙、腰褶裙與瀑布褶花邊裙CIRCLES，PEPLUMS，AND CASCADES裙擺不齊的裙SKIRTS WITH UNEVEN HEMLINES裙子的設計變化SKIRT DESlGN VARfATIONS14 袖子Sleeves概述lNTRODUCTION 袖克夫SLEEVE CUFFS 帽狀袖CAP SLEEVES無省道袖樣板DARTLESS SLEEVE PATTERN 適合低袖山的袖窿MODIFYlNG ARMHOLE TO REDUCE SLEEVE CAP EASE泡泡袖PUFF SLEEVES 圓弧形口袖ClRCULAR HEMLINE SLEEVES花瓣袖PETAL SLEEVES燈籠袖LANTERN SLEEVES入肩帽袖SLEEVES WITH EXTENDED CAPS羊腿袖LEG一0F-MUTTON SLEEVES垂蕩褶袖COWL SLEEVES婚禮服袖WEDDING SLEEVES款式多變的袖子SLEEVE VARlATlONS WITH PATTERNS降低袖窿的袖子SLEEVES WITH LOWERED ARMHOLE主教袖原型BASlc BlSHOP SLEEVES夸張的主教袖EXAGGERATED B I SHOP SI EEVE15 連肩袖、插肩袖、落肩袖、大袖窿袖Kimono，Raglan，Drop Shoulder,and Exaggerated Armholes概述——與上衣相連的袖子INTRODUCTION TO SLEEVE-BODlCE COMBINATIONS連肩袖原型BASlC KIMON蝙蝠袖原型BASlC DOLMAN一片式連肩袖ONE-PIECE COMBINATIONS連肩袖上衣的基本樣板KIMONO TORSO FOUNDAT 1ON 連袖裝KIMONO DRESS土耳其長袍——設計3 CAFTAN-DESIGN 3腋下有插角布的連肩袖服裝KIMONO WITH GUSSETS插肩袖RAGLAN SLEEVE插肩袖設計與樣板變化RAGLAN DESIGN AND VARIATlONS落肩袖DROP SHOULDER夸張袖窿的袖子EXAGGERATED ARMHOL ES16 紐扣、紐孔與貼邊Buttons，Buttonholes，and Facings紐扣與紐孔BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES貼邊FACINGS17 衩口與口袋Plackets and Pockets衩口PLACKETS口袋POCKETS索引Index